ZZ Hop: Drink to be Sober

Mike Sober is a memorable man. Folks across California will recognize him and his signature scruffy beard as he enters the bar or brewery in his never-ending quest for the next great hopped-up concoction. On the outside he has the appearance of a gruff individual, but spend two seconds talking with him on any subject and you’ll learn quickly that Mike is a gentle, intelligent man that is fairly passionate about his beer choice of beer. Some have made the mistake to assume he’s a one-trick-pony, that his tastes for beer are solely focused on IPAs and Double IPAs, this is far from true. While he tends to enjoy these brews more than others, it is very common to see him sipping away at a clean pilsner, or an aromatic hefeweizen. The thing Mr. Sober demands above all else when sipping a beer is quality.

It’s been this way for many years. Back when the first craft beer revolution hit the Nor Cal bar scene (in the 1990s) you could find Mike and his lovely bride, Terri, sidled up at the Owl Club in Roseville (which, to my knowledge, was the first ‘craft beer’ bar in the region) sipping whatever good beer was on tap. He also made regular appearances at the local brewery, Beermann’s – which was conveniently located next to Mike’s place of employment. I believe it’s safe to say, if you’ve been a fan of craft beer in the greater Sacramento area, you’ve at least seen the man we love so much (by the way, Mike is a regular contributor to PBN). It was at Beermann’s and the Owl Club that a growing group of beer enthusiasts met Mike and learned to like him more and more with each chance encounter. Today, a tight-nit group of friends still meets regularly, part of a group we fondly call “The SOBER group”. The man in the middle, the connection many of us have (beyond our love of beer) is our relationship with Mike.

How fitting is it then to see a beer made and named after him? That’s exactly what happened when Brian Ford at Auburn Alehouse created a hop monster (triple IPA) and named it ZZ Hop, with the tag line “Drink to be Sober”. The beer is more than a tongue in cheek reference to Mike’s long beard, it’s a ode to  a man that has influenced so many in the region – including, I believe, Mr. Brian Ford. You see, beyond his sipping Mike and Terri have regularly opened their home to host area beer geeks as we imbibe on some of the world’s best beer. Together the couple has traveled thousands of miles and collected growlers from just about every state in the western US. He’s been one of the region’s biggest advocates for better beer and has helped many brewers and bar owners with his free and good advice on a number of topics (a little talked about fact about Mike is his acute palate and ability to detect off-flavors in beer, even if he’s not sure what they are exactly). If ever there were a man in our region fitting of a beer named and modeled after him, it would be Mike Sober.

ZZ Hop debuts in February and will have a very limited run – only seven barrels worth (roughly 14 kegs). The official debut will fittingly be held at the Owl Club on February 9th. If you’ve ever seen the man, if you share a passion for Sacramento craft beer, do yourself a favor and find one of these insanely hopped-up beers. It’s pale, aggressively hopped in all ways (bitter, aromatic and flavorful) and will likely leave a mark on your palate.

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A Quick Diversion: Sacramento Cocktails

I know, this is a blog all about beer, but sometimes I gotta get me a good cocktail. Case in point – this week I set out on the town to celebrate another journey around the sun whilst chasing down great whiskey-based creations in Sacramento.

Our first stop after a quick lunch at Tuli Bistro was the much-celebrated Shady Lady, a place I’ve mentioned in a piece published in Beer West this past summer. Shady has the know-how and ingredients necessary to create top-notch cocktails, but the quirky staff can be cold at times, ignoring bar-customers for long periods of time and opting to mix a patron’s drink in front of more familiar faces (a minor pet peeve of mine). What the barkeeps do best at Shady Lady is create an attractive elixir – each and every drink they served across the bar was eye-catching.

We ordered a small selection of drinks (three) and were most impressed with the Horse’s Neck, a whiskey-based creation accented with housemade ginger syrup and garnished with a thoughtfully over-sized lemon zest – an incredible drink, among the best I’ve had in the region, to be certain. The Old Fashioned was attractive enough, but was heavy-handed on the booze. The final drink of this stop was a rosemary-infused treat, which I neglected to get the name of. No matter, it was sexy to look at, but incredibly acidic. I’m certain had I mentioned this to the staff it could have been easily fixed, but as it were I knew the day was just getting started. So, upon paying our tab we wandered to our next stop.

De Vere’s Irish Pub is one of my absolute favorite stops when I’m in the mood for a great whiskey, it never disappoints when it comes to selection and a friendly atmosphere. I ordered up a Highland Park 15 and let the worries of the world fade away. We also ordered up a Basil Hayden Old Fashioned, which was good enough to imbibe. As far as mixologists go, De Vere’s is more about the neat drams than the pure cocktails – and this is not a dig on them at all. They play up to their strengths well and are incredibly knowledgeable about the vast library of whiskeys they boast in the back bar area. While I longed for a Pappy Van Winkle, I opted to settle up and get some fresh air with a quick walk through the Capitol Mall – just down the block.

Next up on the list was The Grange, one of my favorite food destinations in the region. Here I trusted the judgement of the barkeep and he impressed me immensely with his Grange Manhattan – a lovely blend of Woodford Reserve (a batch made just for the restaurant), sweet vermouth, house-made bitters and garnished with fresh pomegranate. This drink had it all! Lovely color, great body and oh-so-drinkable! I nursed this beauty for some time and made several mental notes to be sure to get back here for more. Yes, we also ordered an Old Fashioned here, which was quite lovely (despite the use of an orange wedge). For us, however, Grange’s go-to drink must be their house Manhattan.

To finish our cocktail tour of Sacramento we sidled up to the hard-to-find bar stools at The Waterboy. OK, to be clear, we stopped here for oysters and sweetbreads, but while at the bar you can’t help but imbibe on what the barkeep is creating. This understated bartender was easily the most efficient barkeep of the day, putting out drinks for 30+ diners and eight more at the bar, each with deliberate care and attention to detail. His Old Fashioned wasn’t the best in town, but it was great. Moreover, just watching him in his element instilled great confidence in me that the guy could create just about anything a customer threw his way – great use of syrups, bitters, fresh fruit juices and each drink went out with eye-catching appeal.

I know Sacramento’s a great place for beer, has been for some time, but it’s nice every now and then to be reminded of the other treats our fair city has to offer up. It’s hard to explain how far the city has come in the decade or so, but one day spend exploring the city’s better food and drink scene will surely not disappoint.

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Loomis Basin: Two Hearty Beers for Cool Winter Nights

By Mark Zahn, The Beer Geek

It’s that time of year for cooler weather and bigger beers. We have two more tasty brews to tell you about from the Loomis Basin Brewing Co.: Jacked Up Recession Ale and Double Dip Recession Ale, two smooth and creamy robust porters.

Jacked Up Recession is a Jack Daniels whiskey-barrel-aged porter, which “evolved” from LBB’s Double Dip Recession robust porter. Double Dip is a big, malty brew with a nice roasty character – perfect for this time of year. It has very pleasant coffee and chocolate notes and a nice balance with 32 IBU’s. A mild warmth is noticeable from the 8.5% ABV that Brewer Jim says, “will soothe your inflationary woes away”… and being that it’s poured on nitro at the Loomis Basin tasting room, the brew has a smooth and silky body that will make your taste buds dance.

Well, how about aging this tasty porter? Not only that, how about aging it in whiskey barrels to add even more character? Done. Brewer Jim has had this porter aging for the past few months with weekly barrel checks and taste tests by none other than Big Mike himself. As soon as the desired flavor profile was achieved, kegging and bottling began, and the Jacked Up Recession Ale was born.

Jacked Up has a similar flavor profile to the Double Dip, of course, but the whiskey flavor gives this porter a decidedly different character to it’s cousin: a bit sweeter, and due to the whiskey flavor, a bit more alcoholic “warmth.” Jacked Up is also poured on nitro to give it that wonderful creamy body. Yummy!

A limited bottling run of 720 bottles (22-ounce) was recently completed – but you’ll have to hurry if you want to grab a few for immediate enjoyment or for aging… many advanced orders have already been placed.

My suggestion is for you to get over to LBB soon and sample these delicious porters. Also, compare the tap to the bottle – it’s always interesting how tap and bottle “packaging” provides differences in mouthfeel and flavor.

The Jacked Up probably won’t be around too long as it is a seasonal release… and we probably won’t see it for a while again until Brewer Jim feels like brewing it… so get going!

Cheers,
The Beer Geek.

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What Rubicon’s Expansion Means

It’s been in the works for a while now, but finally someone broke the story that Rubicon Brewing Company is expanding with a new production facility in West Sacramento. This is an obvious sign of Rubicon’s continued success, that’s not a story that needs to be written. However, this is also a story of one city’s failure and loss.

It’s no secret that Sacramento is having a brewery boom right now, that’s been written about here already. However, this seemingly subtle move by Rubicon should have City and County officials attention. You see, West Sacramento is a different city and a different county than Sacramento. In a time when our local economies are struggling to scrape by, I am baffled that Sacramento officials aren’t doing more to keep this revenue-generating, job-creating, pride-generating business inside county and city lines.

Well, congratulations to Yolo County and the city of West Sacramento. Also, congrats to the team at Rubicon Brewing Company! Keep on making world-class beer for the hop-loving masses.

Sacramento officials, work on making this city more business friendly. You might just come out ahead.

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Sacramento’s Newest Brewers

As regular readers may have noted, things are hectic around here and the updates are essentially non-existent. That likely won’t change much for a while as I gear up for Sacramento Beer Week and a few other projects that need worked on. For now, I thought I’d share a video I shot today at American River Brewing Company, with a bit of commentary.

There are a lot of new breweries opening up in Northern California these days, which is fantastic. That said, there are a few right now that I am very excited about: Berryessa Brewing in Winters, Loomis Basin and American River. Why do these three have me excited? Well, they’re each steered by an experienced and steady hand.

Berryessa has recently started distributing draught beer in the region, all brewed by Chris Miller who comes to us from Snipe Mountain Brewing in the Northwest. His departure was a sad affair for the folks up there, but I am selfishly pleased that he’s landed so close to Sacramento – I expect great things from these guys.

Loomis Basin (in Loomis) was started by the experienced brewer, Jim Gowan, a known commodity in the Sacramento region with years of experience. He’s been open for a while now and the place is rockin’! One of the most comfy outdoor patios, killer beer and some very special projects (they just bottled “Black Jack”, a robust porter aged in Jack Daniels barrels – an impressive beer to be certain!). If you haven’t yet found these guys, get your ass to Loomis.

American River Brewing brings the most experience of all of these breweries with David Mathis and Andy Armstrong teaming up in what can only be a fantastic relationship. You see, these two know each other well – personally and professionally – as they both come from the good old days at BJs Brewhouse (back when they had more actual breweries). I can attest that there are few palates as attuned to the qualities of beer as David’s – the man is an incredible taster. I can also attest that few have the passion and attention to detail that Andy brings – something anyone that has watched him brew will agree with. Together these two will do great things, and I think they know it (even if they won’t come out and say it). I mean, look at the size of the facility they have – look and see just how much room for growth they have. That, dear readers, is not by accident. Yes, I too believe it won’t be too many years before there are rows of fermentors lining this warehouse. People of Rancho Cordova – you have no idea how great your beer scene is about to become.

All this leads me back to my main point. I have a ton of work to do for Sacramento Beer Week this year – loads of new brewers coming on board (many more than mentioned here). For those that call the Sacramento region home, this is the moment we’ve been waiting for.

Cheers!

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Cheers to Max

I’ve been mulling over whether or not I should post a tribute to Max, given that it’s a fairly personal loss to those that knew him, but I realized that Max had been a pretty key figure in the early days of Pacific Brew News – back when we podcasted, especially.

Max Lucero worked as the regional rep for Deschutes for years here in Northern California. If you ever made it to a beer fest in NorCal and spent any time around the Deschutes tent, it’s likely you’ve seen the guy. Moreover, if you ever attended a “pint night” or other Deschutes promotional in the area, Max was sure to be there. His face was as friendly as they came, his eyes smiled as he talked and he was always up for a beer-fueled conversation. He laughed loud and was exceedingly patient with beer geeks (like us) as we hammered him with updates on our favorite seasonal or reserve-series beers.

Beyond the beer world, Max was just a good human being – a young man that certainly left his mark on a community of friends and family that had the pleasure to call Max a friend. To those he left behind, we (Rick, Mark, Mike and the rest of the PBN crew) extend our heart-felt condolences.

Max passed away last week at his home, he was 40 years old. This fall as the new beers show up from Deschutes, lift a pint to Max.

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Squatters Loses Brewmaster to Redhook

Quick post – time to get to the bar!

I get a lot of email alerts, most the time I read ‘em and delete ‘em. However, this one… this one from ProBrewer really caught my eye.

Well-known brewer Jennifer Talley, award-winning brewmaster for Salt Lake City’s Squatters Pub Brewery for 20 years is leaving Squatters to become brewing operations manager at the Redhook Ale Brewery in Woodinville, Wash.

Squatter’s produces about 1,250 barrels of beer a year. Redhook? About 170,000 barrels of beer annually.

When Squatters opened a microbrewery in 1994, Talley became head brewer when the previous head brewer moved over to Salt Lake Brewing’s sister company, Utah Brewers Cooperative, which makes Wasatch Beers.

Talley got her first award — a gold medal at Denver’s Great American Beer Festival for a Vienna lager — in 1997. She proceeded to name her daughter Vienna when she was born two years ago. Since then, she has won numerous awards at the GABF, including another gold last weekend for Squatters’ Fifth Element ale. Squatters will search nationally and locally for a new head brewer. The company posted has posted an ad for the job here on ProBrewer.

That’s a pretty big move! There’s a lot of info in this message – more than I have time to discuss (1,250 to 170,000 barrels?!)… As is, congrats to Jennifer – best of luck with the transition.

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Further Reading: International Pale Ale

In my post yesterday I made a flippant comment with zero explanation, “International IPA, huh?”. Well, please allow me to explain.

First off, I was mistaken in calling the new style “International IPA”, it is in fact called “International-Style Pale Ale”. My beef with this style is, well, it makes no sense. To start, let’s look at the Pale Ale / IPA categories judged at the GABF.

  • English-Style Pale Ale
  • English-Style IPA
  • International-Style Pale Ale
  • American-Style Pale Ale
  • American-Style Strong Pale Ale
  • American-Style IPA
  • Imperial IPA

Now, I get the need for pale ale and IPA categories. I sort of get the need for a strong pale ale category, because it is cleanly defined in the guidelines by alcohol by volume (frankly, it’s just an IPA). The English versions of pale ale and IPA both require “earthy, herbal English-variety hop character”, while the American versions require “floral and citrus-like American-variety hop character”.

What does the International-style Pale Ale require?

The style is characterized by wide range of hop characters unlike fruity, floral and citrus-like American-variety hop character and unlike earthy, herbal English-variety hop character.

In other words, while the English and American styles of pale ales are defined by what they should have, this new style is defined by what it does not have. In my mind, it’s defined by a lack of definition. Maybe I’m crazy.

To further poke at this style, let’s look at the Gold Medal winner for this new category, Boulevard Pale Ale - a superb pale ale, no doubt. According to the Boulevard website, the hops used in this beer include:

  • Cascade
  • Magnum
  • Palisade
  • Simcoe
  • Styrian Goldings
Another award winner in this category is Ninkasi’s Radiant – a truly fantastic beer, to be certain. According to the Ninkasi site, Radiant uses “Millenium, Galena, Northern Brewer, Liberty, Glacier” hops.

What I read here is a mix of American and European hop varieties. Perhaps what the style is looking for is a blend of each flavor it says should be absent? Look, I’m not saying anything about the quality of beers that won in this category, they’re truly fantastic beers. What I am saying is this category seems wholly unnecessary.

 

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GABF by the Numbers

Sure, a picture is worth a thousand words, but numbers… well, they make the world go round. Below are just a few fun facts about this years Great American Beer Festival.

Awards by State

  • California – 51
  • Colorado – 44
  • Oregon – 15
  • Indiana – 10
  • Washington – 10
  • Pennsylvania – 7
  • Utah – 7

The Top Medals Winners

  • Sun King Brewing Co., 8 medals
  • Firestone Walker Brewing Co., 6 medals
  • Pizza Port Carlsbad, 6 medals
  • Rock Bottom Brewery, 6 medals
  • Boston Beer Co., 4 medals

The Top Five Categories

  • American-Style India Pale Ale (IPA)- 176 entries
    • Gold: Elevated IPA, La Cumbre Brewing Co
    • Silver: Deviant Dale’s, Oskar Blues Brewery
    • Bronze: Head Hunter IPA, Fat Heads Brewery
  • Wood- and Barrel-Aged Strong Beer – 118 entries
    • Gold: Melange a Trois, Nebraska Brewing Co
    • Silver: BBJ (Bourbon Barrel Johan), Sun King Brewing Co
    • Bronze: Barrel Aged Naked Evil BBW, Hoppin’ Frog Brewing Co
  • American-Style Pale Ale – 105 entries
    • Gold: Pale 31, Firestone Walker Brewing Co
    • Silver: Mission St. Pale, Firestone Walker Brewing Co
    • Bronze: Ute Trail Pale Ale, Amicas
  • American-Style Strong Pale Ale – 103 entries
    • Gold: Pako’s Eye P.A., Snake River Brewing
    • Silver: AleSmith IPA, AleSmith Brewing Co
    • Bronze: Hop Knot, Four Peaks Brewing Co
  • Imperial India Pale Ale – 102 entries
    • Gold: Citra Double IPA, Kern River Brewing
    • Silver: Double Jack, Firestone Walker Brewing Co
    • Bronze: Imperial IPA, Epic Brewing Co
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Quick GABF Thoughts

 

I have a whole lot of things I want to mention about the 30th Great American Beer Festival, but much of that will have to wait as I have a date with my day job… which involves pouring great beer.

  1. You could not have begged or paid for nicer weather than we saw in Denver last week. Driving up to Boulder was just a magical experience – clear skies, breath-taking scenery and zero regret about my choice in beer-drinking attire (BA-issued shorts, t-shirt and hat… well, they should be BA-issued given that’s pretty much the standard get-up for brewers not named Garrett Oliver).
  2. Denver has grown up a lot over the years. Today the streets are clean, the police are polite and patient, bars are more accommodating and restaurants have seriously upped their game.
  3. I really hate pretzel necklaces.
  4. I really love the spirit some fest attendees have brought to the event. In particular, I loved the group from Washington that all wore matching shirts that said they were in Denver to enjoy the GABF, “One ounce at a time”. I saw them on the floor in Denver, as well as a couple stops in Boulder – such positive people, who I never personally met. Add to that the guys with GABF haircuts, party outfits and you-name-it costumes. Very cool.
  5. There was way too much unused space in the back of the convention center. I’m not the decision maker, but I’d certainly like to see a layout that doesn’t cram all those waiting for a beer in like sardines.I believe, along these same lines, that the whole concept of the education seminars needs to be reworked. I have tried each year to pop in and listen, but it’s just a mess acoustically. While I admire the BA for wanting to educate, I question the actual place these seminars have on the floor.
  6. Loved the Brewers Guild Booths! Loved seeing the regional pride of those that ran each and loved the choice of beers each had. Great concept, wonderfully delivered.
  7. Holy shit, Sun King! If I’m in or around Indianapolis, I’m running to this place. So awesome to see them hit the awards stage so often. Clearly this team is creating killer beer.
  8. We need to have a longer discussion with our nation’s wholesalers about beer. Sitting with the award winners for Distributor of the Year was eye-popping. There is SO MUCH MORE we can do to educate our customers – love that some distributors have picked up the baton on this (as they should, I believe).
  9. We also need to have a much longer discussion about our brewers’ relationships with farmers of hops and barley. Ironically brewers feel they earn top-dollar for their superior products (a point I don’t argue), but seem hesitant to contract out years in advance for superior ingredients.  That’s got to change.
  10. The Colorado Governor’s stump speech in the middle of the awards ceremony was utterly classless. I don’t begrudge the man getting up on stage, but for fuck sake – get up, say hello, praise the brewers and the patrons, remind us to drink responsibly and get off the friggin’ stage! The longer he droned on, the more I wished I’d taken a piss break.
  11. Snake River team – love that you carried the state flag on stage. Cheers!
  12. I think the most awkward thing for me to see during the awards was Ken Grossman in line, with nobody coming up to shake his hand or say congrats. He stood there, patiently, by himself. You know what though, that’s exactly how I see him. He’s a quiet man that seems to shy away from praise. He is truly all about the beer and making it in a way that is good for everyone. On second thought, that scene wasn’t at all awkward – it was appropriate.
  13. What was awkward: Sam Adams Latitude winning a medal in the English IPA category with a beer that is decidedly all about the German hops.
  14. True class, Chris Black of Falling Rock. Taking time to lift a pint to Don Younger, putting a permanent plaque in the bar where he so often imbibed. Very, very cool.
  15. International IPA? Huh?
  16. A “Three-pete” on any stage is impressive and should be called out. What Bagby and his team have done at Pizza Port is absolutely amazing. Cheers!
  17. Firestone Walker – no shit you have a passion for pale! Unreal showing, year in and year out by the crew there. I’d love to see FSW team up with Sierra Nevada someday… to make a porter.
  18. Todd Ashman, you’re looking good man! Keep it up.
  19. Thank you, Southwest Airlines! If you didn’t know, they paid for bike taxi services from Falling Rock to the Festival (or reverse) for a few hours on Thursday. What a GREAT thing to do – it was so nice to see the city this way. I loved chatting with the cyclist – actually, there’s nothing I didn’t like about that trip.
  20. Vinnie & Natalie – class acts. In case you missed it, Vinnie escorted Jack McAuliffe to the stage to be recognized by the throng of cheering men and women who greatly appreciated the movement he began – he opened the first modern “micro” brewery in America. Humble man.
Thank you, again, to everyone I met and shared drinks with these past five days or so. In the airport, in breweries and in bars – it was such a treat being with friends I see but a couple times a year. Cheers!
View my pictures of the weekend here, on Flickr.
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